Monkster Gets Stranded


a free knitting pattern from kidsknits.com


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This is a free knitting pattern for a Norwegian Teddy Bear sweater with raglan shoulders and the stranded colorwork typical of Nordic knitting. There are two motif versions provided, plus a little help to get you started on your very own version. To make the Norwegian Teddy Bear sweaters shown, we used Dale of Norway Falk yarn , a soft yet study machine washable 100% wool. Heilo and Hauk are perfect substitutes, too. All Dale of Norway yarns are available through us at Kidsknits.com or SkiKnits.com

Free Knitting Pattern for a Norwegian Teddy Bear Sweater


You are welcome to copy and distribute this free knitting pattern. You are warmly encouraged to use this pattern for charitable purposes. However, this pattern is not to be used for any commercial endeavors whatsoever.

Fits most 16" to 18" tall stuffed animals. (Monkster is from "Build-A-Bear". Monkster and his sweater have both been rigorously and continually field tested by my youngest son for more than a year. Sally Bear and her sweater are brand new. Sally Bear is from "Gund".) See also www.twostrands.wordpress.com for blog discussion of this pattern.

Finished measurements: Chest circumference = 18"
Length = approximately 6" (easily varied)

Monkster's traditional version: 3 contrasting 50-g balls of Dale of Norway Falk, Heilo or Hauk
yarn. I used Falk in Norwegian Blue 5744, Red 4018 and Gold 2427. Click on the yarn names, above, to pick your favorites.

Bear's floral version: 4 contrasting 50-g balls of Dale of Norway Falk, Heilo or Hauk yarn. I used Falk in Crème 2313, Fern Green 9155, Fuchsia 4516 and Magenta 4536. Click on the yarn names, above, to pick your favorites!

Bear chart rows 2, 16 and 26 use 3 colors at a time. The sample was done knitting with 3 colors at once on those rows. If you prefer, you can knit the entire yoke with just 2 colors at a time and use duplicate stitch to embroider the 3rd color in place one you're finished.

Suggested needles: At least 1 set of 5 double-pointed needles in US size 4(3.5mm). USE WHATEVER SIZE YOU NEED TO OBTAIN THE GAUGE, BELOW!

Optional: Double-pointed needles, a size or two smaller, for ribbing.

Gauge: 24 stitches and 28 rows = 4/10cm in stockinette stitch (on larger needle).

Notions: 4 small safety pins, several stitch holders (you can use dpns or circulars the same size or smaller), 4 stitch markers. (A scrap of thin yarn in a different color, tied in a loose loop around your needle, makes an ideal stitch marker.)

Abbreviations: beg = beginning; BO = bind off; CO = cast on; dpn(s) = double-pointed needle(s); EOR = end of round; K = knit; K2tog = knit 2 stitches together; P = purl; rd(s) = round(s); rep = repeat; st(s) = stitch(es)

Design Overview: Body and sleeves are knit circularly from the bottom up, starting with a few rounds of K1, P1 ribbing, then, continuing in circular stockinette stitch. A few rows into the charted design, all but 3 body and 3 sleeve stitches from each side are joined and worked together circularly for the yoke and ribbed collar. Pairs of raglan decreases at 4 points miter the yoke. The few stitches not included in the yoke are grafted together at the bottom of the armholes.

Pullover instructions: Designer's note: I recommend using needles 1 size smaller for the bottom and cuff ribbing, but staying with the larger needles for the collar, since stuffed animals have proportionately huge heads. If you were making a sweater like this for a real, live person (no offense, Monkster), you'd want to do all ribbing in needles at least 1 size smaller, maybe even two. However, for such a tiny sweater that probably won't see a lot of athletic stress (then again, you don't know Monkster!), you can probably get away with doing everything in just one needle size, if you prefer.

Body: Using main color, CO 108 sts. Join circularly. *K1, P1, rep from * for 4 complete rds. If you've used smaller needles for the ribbing, CHANGE TO LARGER NEEDLES. K 9 rds. Place marker (to denote end of rd). K 54 sts, Place marker (to denote side). K54 sts to end of rd. Work rows 1 through 11 of one of the charts, below, beginning at row 1, column 1, reading right to left, repeating the 6 sts of each row until the end of each rd. Break off all yarns, leaving several inches of each color for weaving in. If you don't have another set of needles in the same size, transfer sts to st holders. Set aside.

Sleeves: Using main color, CO 42 sts. Join circularly. *K1, P1, rep from * for 4 complete rds. If you've used smaller needles for the ribbing, CHANGE TO LARGER NEEDLES. K 10 rds. Place marker. Work rows 1 through 11 of chart in same manner as above. Break off all yarns, leaving several inches of each color for weaving in. If you don't have another set of needles in the same size, transfer sts to st holders. Set aside. Work 2nd sleeve, but this time, do not break off yarns at end of chart row 11.

Joining round: Between here and the "Yoke" section, it's all one doozy of a round. I've broken it into sections to make it easier on our eyes.

Start with the body, carrying yarns over from 2nd sleeve. Rd begins/ends at the back of the right shoulder.

Sl first 2 Back sts to safety pin. Following row 12 of chart, matching chartwork, K2tog, K halfway across Back, switch to next dpn,

K until 3 Back sts remain before side marker, SSK, sl last Back st to safety pin, sl marker to dpn, sl first 2 left sleeve sts to safety pin, K2tog, K halfway across left sleeve, switch to next dpn,

K until 3 left sleeve sts rem, SSK, sl last left sleeve st to safety pin, sl marker to dpn, sl first 2 Front sts to safety pin, K2tog, K halfway across Front, switch to next dpn,

K until 3 Front sts remain, SSK, sl last Front st to safety pin, sl marker to dpn, sl first 2 right sleeve sts to safety pin, K2tog, K halfway across right sleeve, switch to next dpn,

K until 3 right sleeve sts rem, SSK, sl last right sleeve st to pin, sl marker to dpn, EOR.

Yoke: Following rows 13-27 of chart, work each rd as follows: *K2tog, K to 2 sts before marker, SSK, sl marker, rep from * to end of rd. Collar: *K1, P1, rep from * for 4 complete rds. BO loosely. Finishing: Undo the safety pins on one side. Notice there are 3 sts at the bottom of the sleeve and 3 body sts. Move them from the safety pins to dpns so that sleeve sts are on one dpn, body sts on another. Graft them together. If you need help with grafting, see my "Grafting 911" blogpost: Two Strands
Weave in loose ends. Now, put some clothes on that animal!

Written by Mary Ann Stephens for Kidsknits.com © 2007 Kidsknits.com FOR CHARITABLE PURPOSES ONLY

Free Knitting Pattern Charts for a Norwegian Teddy Bear Sweater